Understanding Car Finance in South Africa: Calculating Your Budget, Hidden Costs, and How to Avoid Surprises

Herewith a practical guide to car finance in South Africa. Learn to calculate budgets, avoid hidden fees, and understand your rights.

Buying a car is 1 of the biggest financial decisions most consumers will make, yet many people focus solely on the monthly payment without fully understanding how car finance works in South Africa.

Hidden fees, unexpected charges, and misunderstood terms can turn what seems like an affordable purchase into a financial burden. We’re here to help you fully understand the complexities of car finance and all associated costs, as well as make informed decisions that protect your wallet.

Calculating Your Car Budget

It can be difficult to separate emotion from logic when you’re shopping for a new car. So it’s a good idea to do your sums before you even start looking at vehicles. Once you know what you can realistically afford, you’ve taken the 1st step; then you can explore the big picture beyond the car’s asking price.

Assessing True Affordability

Financial experts recommend the 20/4/10 rule as a starting point: put down 20% as a deposit, finance for no more than 4 years, and spend no more than 10% of your gross monthly income on car expenses.

Cars.co.za’s Car Finance Calculator is an invaluable tool for estimating monthly payments before you set foot in a dealership. Our online calculator helps you understand how different loan terms, interest rates, and deposit amounts affect your monthly commitment.

Key Budget Factors

Your deposit amount significantly impacts both your monthly payments and total loan cost. Aim for at least 10%; a larger deposit reduces your monthly payments and the total interest paid over the loan term.

The loan term directly affects affordability, but also total cost. While longer terms mean lower monthly payments, they result in paying significantly more interest over time. A 72-month loan might seem attractive compared with a 48-month option, but you’ll pay thousands more in total interest.

Here’s an example of how loan term affects monthly payments and total interest paid on a car loan of R300 000 with an interest rate of 10% per annum (fixed), comparing 48-month and 72-month terms:

Loan Term	Monthly Payment	Total Paid Over Loan	Total Interest Paid
48 months	R7 645	R367 000	R67 000
72 months	R5 700	R410 400	R110 400

Remember to factor in the total cost of ownership beyond the monthly payment. These costs include:

Insurance
Maintenance
Fuel
Depreciation

Comprehensive insurance is typically mandatory for financed vehicles and can add R1 000 to R3 000 to your monthly costs depending on the car’s value and your risk profile.

Understanding Car Finance: Key Terms and Options

Common Finance Terms

Understanding basic finance terminology helps you make better decisions and avoid confusion during negotiations.

Principal: The amount of money you are borrowing to purchase the car.
Interest Rate: The percentage the lender charges you for borrowing the principal amount, usually expressed as an annual rate.
APR (Annual Percentage Rate): This includes the interest rate plus any additional fees or costs associated with the loan (such as admin fees or insurance premiums), providing a more comprehensive measure of the loan’s true cost.
Loan Term: The length of time you have to repay the loan, typically ranging from 12 to 84 months (1 to 7 years). Shorter loan terms generally mean higher monthly payments but lower total interest paid over the life of the loan.
Total Cost: The sum of the principal plus all interest and fees paid throughout the loan term, representing the full amount you will pay by the time the loan is fully repaid.

Available Options for Car Finance in South Africa

You have several options for financing your vehicle purchase. Dealership financing is convenient and often competitive, but it’s worth comparing rates with banks and credit unions. Major South African banks like FNB, Nedbank, and Absa all offer vehicle finance with varying rates and terms.

Fixed-rate financing means your interest rate stays the same throughout the loan term, providing payment predictability.

Variable-rate loans can start lower but may increase over time, potentially raising your monthly payments.

The lease versus buy decision depends on your needs and preferences. Leasing typically offers lower monthly payments and newer vehicles, but provides no ownership equity. Buying costs more per month, but builds asset value and offers unlimited mileage and modification freedom.

Hidden and Additional Costs: What to Watch Out For

Mandatory Fees

License and registration fees are required by law, but can vary significantly between provinces and dealerships. These legitimate costs cover transferring the vehicle into your name and obtaining license plates. However, some dealerships mark up these fees substantially above the government charges.

For example, vehicle registration in the Western Cape might cost around R500 at the traffic department, but dealerships may charge R1 500 or more for the same service. Always ask for a breakdown of exactly what these fees cover and compare them to the actual government rates.

Administrative Charges

Dealerships often charge administrative fees for paperwork processing, which can range from R1 000 to R5 000 or more. While some administrative work is necessary, these fees are often significantly higher than the actual cost of the service. You can sometimes negotiate these fees down or request to handle some paperwork yourself to reduce costs.

‘On-the-Road’ Fees

On-the-road fees are among the most controversial charges in the South African motor industry. These fees supposedly cover pre-delivery inspections, vehicle cleaning, number plate fitting, and various administrative tasks. However, they can add R4 000 to R8 000 or more to your purchase price.

The controversy stems from the fact that many of these services are either already included in the vehicle’s price or are basic dealership responsibilities. Some consumer advocates argue these fees are unfair additional charges, while dealerships maintain they represent legitimate services.

Recent court rulings have generally allowed these fees to be included in finance agreements, but the debate continues. According to reports from Hippo Insurance and Moneyweb, the legal landscape around these fees remains complex and evolving.

The key is requesting a detailed breakdown of what these fees include and negotiating where possible. Some dealerships may be willing to reduce or eliminate certain components of these charges.

Other Costs to Consider

Insurance Requirements

Comprehensive car insurance is typically mandatory for financed vehicles (to protect your investment and the lender’s security). Insurance costs vary based on the vehicle’s value, your driving history, location, and chosen coverage levels. Shop around with multiple insurers as rates can vary significantly.

Get a quote from Budget Insurance and save!

Extended Warranties and Value-Added Products

Dealerships often offer extended warranties, service plans, and other value-added products on older cars. While some of these can provide peace of mind, they’re typically optional despite sales pressure suggesting otherwise. Evaluate these products carefully and compare their cost to potential benefits.

Service plans are often included with new cars that are still under warranty, potentially saving money on routine maintenance while providing predictable costs. However, extended warranties on used cars may offer limited value, especially if the vehicle already has some manufacturer warranty remaining.

Understanding Extended Warranties

An extended warranty is essentially an insurance policy that kicks in after the original manufacturer warranty expires, covering certain mechanical or electrical breakdowns and repairs. If your used car still has a valid manufacturer warranty, many of the major components (engine, transmission, electrical systems) are already covered, which reduces the immediate need for additional coverage.

Buying an extended warranty while the manufacturer’s warranty is still active can mean you’re paying extra for coverage you don’t need yet. Extended warranties are more valuable once the original warranty expires, especially for older cars or those with higher mileage, where the risk of costly repairs increases.

However, if you do consider an extended warranty, it’s important to:

Compare the cost of the warranty against potential repair costs to see if it offers good value.
Read the terms carefully to understand what is covered and what is excluded (e.g., wear and tear, pre-existing conditions).
Consider the coverage limits and whether perks like roadside assistance are included.

Maintenance and Running Costs

Factor in ongoing expenses like routine servicing, tyre replacements, fuel, and unexpected repairs. These costs vary between vehicle types; for example, luxury vehicles tend to cost more to maintain than family cars. Research the specific model’s maintenance costs and common issues before making your decision.

Avoiding Surprises: Smart Steps Before You Sign

Get Pre-Approved

Consider obtaining pre-approval from your bank before visiting dealerships. This gives you a clear budget, potentially better interest rates, and stronger negotiating power. Pre-approval also helps you understand exactly what you qualify for without the pressure of a sales environment.

Finance Application Warning

Be aware that once a dealership submits a finance application on your behalf for a specific vehicle, banks will generally not accept a separate, direct finance application from you for that same vehicle.

This is because lenders consider the dealer’s application as competing for the same business, effectively preventing multiple simultaneous applications for 1 car.

To avoid losing the ability to secure independent financing, clarify this process with the dealer upfront and consider arranging your own financing or obtaining pre-approval before engaging with the dealer.

Request Detailed Quotes

Never sign anything without a complete breakdown of all costs and fees. The National Credit Act gives you the right to receive a detailed quotation before signing any credit agreement. This should include the cash price, deposit, loan amount, interest rate, monthly payment, total payments, and all additional fees.

Compare quotes from dealers and lenders to identify the best overall deal. Sometimes, a higher interest rate with lower fees results in better total value than a lower rate with excessive additional charges.

Know Your Rights

The National Credit Act provides important consumer protections in vehicle financing. You have the right to receive all loan terms in writing, a cooling-off period for certain transactions, and the ability to settle your loan early without excessive penalties.

If you suspect unlawful fees or practices, you can lodge complaints with the National Credit Regulator at www.ncr.org.za or contact consumer protection organisations for assistance.

Understanding Car Finance in South Africa

Understanding car finance in South Africa means looking beyond monthly payments to consider total costs, hidden fees, and your long-term financial health. Take time to research, compare options, and ask detailed questions before committing to any agreement.

It could be an expensive mistake to rush into a deal without understanding its implications. A few extra days of research and comparison shopping can save you thousands – and years of financial stress.

Remember that car salespeople work on commission and may pressure you to sign immediately with claims of limited-time offers. Legitimate deals will still be available after you’ve had time to review the Terms & Conditions and compare alternatives.

By following these guidelines and staying informed about your rights and options, you can navigate the car financing process confidently and avoid unpleasant surprises that could impact your financial future.

Want to know more?

If so, visit Cars.co.za’s Car Finance page, where we provide you with explanations, advice, and guidance to help you better understand car finance in South Africa.

How Do Car Auctions Work? Your Complete Guide to Buying Smart

We’re exploring exactly how car auctions work, what additional costs are involved, and how to make good decisions on the day.

How do car auctions work? Do you think you can snag a great deal on your next car by bidding at an auction? Car auctions offer an exciting alternative to traditional dealership purchases, but they can seem mysterious (and a little scary) to 1st-time buyers. The truth is, thousands of South Africans are discovering that auctions can be goldmines for finding quality vehicles at below-market prices.

The auction scene in South Africa has evolved dramatically over recent years. What once required physical attendance at dusty auction yards now includes sophisticated online platforms where you can bid from your smartphone. From luxury sedans repossessed by banks to fleet vehicles sold by rental companies, the variety available might surprise you.

Our comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about the auction floor. By the end, you’ll understand how to spot genuine bargains, avoid common pitfalls, and potentially save thousands on your next vehicle purchase.

What Are Car Auctions?

Car auctions are events where vehicles are sold to the highest bidder, creating a competitive marketplace that can benefit savvy buyers. These events bring together sellers like banks, dealerships, insurance companies, and private individuals who need to move vehicles quickly. The atmosphere is energetic, with auctioneers calling out bids while buyers compete for their desired cars.

Different types of auctions serve various purposes. Public auctions welcome anyone to participate, while dealer-only events restrict bidding to licensed professionals. You’ll also find special auctions for salvage cars, repossessed vehicles, and classic cars, each catering to specific buyer interests and budgets.

How Do Car Auctions Work?

Registration Requirements

Before you can raise your paddle, you’ll need to register as a bidder at the auction house. Most venues require valid identification and a refundable deposit, which serves as security for your potential buys. The deposit amount varies, but usually ranges from R5k to R20k, depending on the types of vehicles sold.

Registration also involves reviewing and signing the auction’s terms and conditions. These documents outline important details like payment deadlines, collection procedures, and your rights and responsibilities as a buyer.

Take time to read these carefully, as they form a binding contract once you start bidding.

The Bidding Process

Once registered, you’ll receive a bidder number that identifies you during the auction. The auctioneer presents each vehicle with a description of its condition, mileage, and any known issues. Bidding starts at a predetermined amount, with participants raising their paddles or calling out to increase the bid.

Reserve prices protect sellers by setting a minimum acceptable bid. If bidding doesn’t reach the reserve, the vehicle may be passed or withdrawn from sale. The hammer falls when the auctioneer accepts the highest bid, creating a legally binding sale between buyer and seller.

Payment and Collection

Successful bidders are generally required to pay the full purchase amount on the day of the auction, usually by the close of business. Accepted payment methods typically include electronic funds transfers (EFT), bank-guaranteed cheques, or bank deposits. While credit cards may be accepted for smaller amounts or deposits at some auction houses, they are rarely accepted for full payment. Cash and personal or company cheques are usually not accepted.

Some auction venues or affiliated financial institutions may offer short-term financing options, but these are not universally available and usually require separate approval.

When calculating your total cost, be sure to factor in additional expenses such as VAT, documentation fees, buyer’s premiums (a percentage of the hammer price), and any other admin or inspection fees.

Collection deadlines are strictly enforced, often requiring vehicle removal within 48-72 hours of purchase. Late collection may result in storage fees or, in extreme cases, resale of your vehicle. Arrange transportation and insurance before auction day to avoid unnecessary complications.

Pre-Auction Preparation

Research and Budgeting

Successful auction buyers do their homework well before the gavel sounds. Auction houses typically publish catalogues or online listings several days in advance, allowing you to research specific vehicles and their estimated values. Use resources such as TransUnion’s market price indicator or look up similar used vehicles online to understand market values and set realistic bidding limits.

Your budget should include more than just the hammer price. Factor in buyer’s premiums (typically 8% to 15% of the sale price), VAT, licensing fees, and potential repair costs. Smart bidders set their maximum bid at 80 to 85% of their total budget to account for these additional expenses.

Cost Type	Description	Typical Amount / Range
Hammer Price	Final bid price at auction	Varies by vehicle
Buyer’s Premium	Auction house fee charged as a percentage of the hammer price	5% to 15% of the hammer price
VAT	Value Added Tax on hammer price + buyer’s premium + fees	15%
Licensing / Transfer Fees	Cost to transfer vehicle ownership post-auction	R1 000 to R3 000+ (varies by province)
Administration / Documentation Fees	Auction-related paperwork and admin fees	R1 000 – R3 000+ (excluding VAT)
Potential Repair Costs	Costs for any necessary repairs or maintenance after purchase	Variable, depends on vehicle condition

Vehicle Inspection

How do car auctions work if you want to view or examine a vehicle? Most auctions offer viewing days when you can physically inspect vehicles before bidding begins. This is your only opportunity to check the car’s condition, as test drives are typically not permitted. Look for signs of accident damage, excessive wear, or mechanical issues that might not be apparent in the auction description.

Consider bringing a knowledgeable friend or hiring a qualified mechanic for expensive purchases. They can spot potential problems that might cost thousands to repair later. Document any concerns with photos, as you’ll have no recourse for undisclosed issues once you buy the vehicle.

Smart Bidding Strategies

Set your maximum bid before the auction begins and stick to it religiously. The competitive atmosphere can easily lead to emotional bidding that exceeds your budget. Many experienced buyers write their limit on paper and keep it visible as a constant reminder during heated bidding wars.

Arrive early to complete registration and conduct final vehicle inspections. Position yourself where you can clearly see the auctioneer and hear announcements about each lot. Some buyers prefer standing near the back to observe other bidders’ behaviour and gauge competition levels.

Consider starting with lower-value vehicles to get comfortable with the pace and procedures. Online auctions offer another option, allowing you to bid remotely while watching live-streamed events from the comfort of your home.

Pros and Cons

The Benefits

Car auctions can offer significant savings compared to dealership prices, particularly for buyers who know what they’re looking for. The wide variety of vehicles available means you might find rare models or specific configurations that are difficult to locate elsewhere. The fast-paced environment also means you can complete a purchase quickly without lengthy negotiations.

The transparency of the auction process means everyone has equal access to the same information about each vehicle. You can often observe the seller’s behaviour and gauge their motivation, which sometimes provides insights into a vehicle’s true condition or value.

The Drawbacks

The “as-is” nature of auction sales means you have limited recourse if problems emerge after purchase. Without the ability to test drive vehicles, you’re making decisions based on visual inspection and limited information. Competition can drive prices higher than expected, sometimes exceeding retail values for desirable vehicles.

Immediate payment requirements can strain your finances if you’re not prepared. Unlike dealership purchases, you can’t usually arrange financing after winning a bid, and failed payment can result in penalties or legal action.

Common Misconceptions

Many people believe car auctions are only for dealers or automotive professionals, but public auctions welcome individual buyers. Another myth suggests that all auction vehicles are damaged or problematic, when in fact, many are simply surplus inventory from dealerships or lease returns in good condition.

Some buyers worry about getting stuck with a lemon, but repossessed car auctions often feature relatively new vehicles that were well-maintained by their previous owners. The key is knowing how to evaluate vehicles properly and setting realistic expectations about condition and value.

Final Tips for Success

If you’ve been wondering how car auctions work, start by attending a few auctions as an observer to understand the rhythm and procedures without the pressure of bidding. Watch experienced buyers and note their strategies, particularly how they inspect vehicles and manage their bidding behaviour.

Develop relationships with auction house staff who can provide insights about upcoming sales and vehicle histories. Many regular buyers find that building these connections helps them identify the best opportunities and avoid potential problems.

Remember that patience is a virtue in the auction world. Don’t feel pressured to buy at your 1st event if nothing meets your criteria or budget. The right vehicle at the right price will eventually come along, and your preparation will help you recognise and capture that opportunity when it arrives.

Car auctions can be an excellent way to find your next vehicle at a competitive price, but remember: success requires preparation, discipline, and realistic expectations.

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What Makes Defensive Driving Different?

Beyond Basic Rules

Defensive driving takes your regular driving skills up a notch. While most drivers focus on following speed limits and stopping at red lights, defensive drivers constantly scan their environment for potential threats. They’re always asking “what if?” – what if that car doesn’t signal before changing lanes, or what if that pedestrian steps into the road?

The core principles are straightforward but effective. You’ll need to:

Control your speed based on conditions
Maintain a safe following distance
Stay alert and avoid distractions
Respect other road users (even the reckless ones)
Adapt your driving to match weather and road conditions

Essentially, you become the responsible driver on the road, even when others aren’t.

The 3-Second Safety Buffer

One of the most important defensive driving techniques is maintaining proper following distance. The 3-second rule is simple to remember and use. When you’re driving, pick a fixed object near the road ahead of you, such as a sign. When the car in front passes it, start counting: “1 thousand and 1, 1 thousand and 2, 1 thousand and 3.” If you pass the same object before finishing your count, you’re too close.

In poor weather conditions or heavy traffic, try to increase this buffer to 4 or 5 seconds. Remember, it takes time to react and even more time for your car to stop completely.

Essential Defensive Techniques

Stay Alert and Look Ahead

The best defensive drivers scan 12-15 seconds ahead of their current position. This means looking beyond the car directly in front of you to spot potential problems early. Are there brake lights flashing further up the road? Is there construction ahead that might cause sudden lane changes?

This forward-thinking approach gives you precious extra seconds to react safely. Instead of being caught off guard by sudden stops or lane changes, you’ll have time to adjust your speed or position gradually.

Master Your Blind Spots

Every vehicle has blind spots – those areas behind your vehicle that your mirrors can’t show you. Before changing lanes, always do a quick shoulder check to see what’s in your blind spot. Modern cars often have blind-spot monitoring systems, but these shouldn’t replace your own visual checks.

Make yourself visible to other drivers, too. Avoid lingering in their blind spots, especially next to large trucks or buses, where these areas are significantly larger.

Signal Smart and Adjust Speed

Communication on the road prevents confusion and accidents. Use your indicators early and clearly to let other drivers know your intentions. This gives them time to adjust and makes lane changes or turns smoother for everyone.

Speed management is equally important. Match the flow of traffic while staying within legal limits, but don’t be afraid to slow down when conditions demand it. If visibility is poor or the road surface is wet, reducing speed gives you more time to react and shortens your stopping distance.

Real Benefits You’ll Experience

Proven Safety Results

Studies show that defensive driving can reduce your accident risk by up to 20%. That’s a significant improvement that could save you from costly repairs, insurance claims, and potential injuries.

These techniques help you handle adverse weather, unexpected road conditions, and those unpredictable moments that catch other drivers off guard.

Many insurance companies recognise the value of defensive driving training. Some offer premium discounts to drivers who complete certified courses, acknowledging that these drivers pose lower risks. Beyond the financial benefits, you’ll likely notice increased confidence behind the wheel and have better control of your vehicle in challenging situations.

Building Lifelong Habits

Defensive driving isn’t just about avoiding accidents – it makes every journey more comfortable and less stressful. When you’re prepared for the unexpected, you’ll find yourself less frustrated by other drivers’ mistakes and more in control of your driving experience.

The skills become 2nd nature with practice. Soon, checking blind spots, maintaining safe distances, and scanning ahead become automatic responses that protect you without conscious effort.

Getting Professional Training

How Defensive Driving Protects You on South African Roads

Course Options in South Africa

Company Name	URL	Course Description	Best For
AS Driving Academy (Adrenalin Driving Academy)	https://adrenalindrivingacademy.co.za/courses/defensive-fleet-safety-driving/	Defensive & Fleet Safety Driving	All licensed drivers, fleet operators
TOPGEAR Driving Academy	https://www.topgearsa.co.za/defensive-driver-training.htm	Defensive Driver Training	Individuals, corporate clients
He and She Driving School	https://www.heandshedrivingschool.co.za	Defensive Driving (various vehicle codes)	Individuals, professional drivers
MasterDrive	https://www.masterdrive.co.za/home-masterdrive/	Defensive Driver Training (cars, trucks, motorcycles)	Private and commercial drivers
Zwartkops Driver Training Centre	https://www.zwartkopsdrivertraining.co.za	Defensive Driving, Skid Control	Individuals, companies, fleet drivers
Liderazgo Training	https://www.liderazgo.co.za/web/defensive-driving.asp	One-day Defensive Driving Programme	Professional and private drivers

What to Look For

When choosing a defensive driving course, prioritise hands-on training over classroom theory. Look for certified instructors who can provide real-world experience in controlled environments. The best courses cover advanced techniques like evasive manoeuvres, emergency braking, and handling car malfunctions.

Consider programs that offer refresher training or advanced modules. Defensive driving skills require practice to stay sharp, and road conditions evolve with new vehicle technologies and traffic patterns.

Making It Stick

Defensive driving works best as a continuous learning process rather than a 1-time training event. Start by focusing on 1 technique at a time – perhaps maintaining proper following distance – until it becomes habit. Then add another skill, such as improved hazard scanning, for example.

Practice during different driving conditions. Night driving, rain, and heavy traffic each present unique challenges that help reinforce your defensive driving skills. Remember, every trip is an opportunity to become a safer, more skilled driver.

The roads in South Africa present unique challenges, but defensive driving techniques give you the tools to handle them confidently. By staying alert, maintaining safe distances, and thinking ahead, you’re not just protecting yourself – you’re contributing to safer roads for everyone. Consider investing in professional training to take your skills to the next level and make defensive driving 2nd nature.

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What Are Crumple Zones and How Do They Work?

What are crumple zones in cars? We examine exactly what these passive safety elements are and how they work to keep you safe.

Your car is designed to crumple. That might sound counterintuitive, but it’s one of the most important safety innovations in modern automotive engineering. Crumple zones, those specially engineered sections at the front and rear of your vehicle, are built to fail – and that failure could save your life.

Most drivers never think about these engineered deformation zones until they need them. Yet every time you get behind the ‘wheel of your vehicle, these silent guardians stand ready to protect you from the devastating forces of a collision.

What Crumple Zones Do

Crumple zones quite literally absorb and dissipate energy during a car crash/collision. These areas are designed to deform and collapse in a controlled way during an impact, absorbing the massive amounts of kinetic energy that need to go somewhere when your moving vehicle suddenly stops.

Unlike the rigid safety cell that protects occupants inside a car’s cabin, crumple zones are intentionally weak. They’re engineered to give way under pressure, creating a buffer that slows your vehicle down gradually rather than bringing it to an abrupt, bone-jarring halt. This controlled collapse is what makes the difference between walking away from an accident and facing serious injury.

The Science Behind the Safety

The physics behind crumple zones may not be rocket science, but it’s lifesaving. The principle relies on impulse and momentum, specifically, the relationship between force, time, and velocity during a crash.

Here’s the equation that could save your life: F_avg × Δt = m × Δv. By increasing the time (Δt) over which your vehicle decelerates, crumple zones dramatically reduce the average force (F_avg) your body experiences. This fundamental relationship explains why modern cars perform so much better in crash tests than their rigid predecessors.

During a collision, these zones don’t just absorb energy through deformation. They also redirect and distribute crash forces away from the passenger compartment, maintaining the structural integrity of your safety cell. This dual action – absorption and redirection – is what keeps the occupant area intact while the front or rear of the vehicle crumples.

Engineering Materials for Maximum Protection

Modern crumple zones aren’t just bent metal waiting to fold. They’re sophisticated structures made from carefully selected materials, including high-strength steel, aluminium alloys, and advanced composites. Each material is chosen for its specific deformation characteristics under impact.

The design often incorporates frame segments that bend or collapse in predetermined patterns. Some vehicles even feature specialised components like collapsible steering columns that further reduce injury risk by preventing the steering wheel from being driven into the driver’s chest during a frontal impact.

Engineers spend countless hours testing these materials and designs to ensure they deform predictably. The goal is controlled failure – the zone must crumple just enough to absorb energy, but not so much that it compromises the passenger cabin’s integrity.

Why Your Life Depends on Them

Occupant Protection

Crumple zones serve as your first line of defence against crash forces. By absorbing and dissipating impact energy, they significantly reduce the forces transmitted to your body. This reduction in force translates directly to reduced injury severity, often the difference between minor bruising and life-threatening trauma.

Passenger Cabin Preservation

While crumple zones collapse, they’re designed to maintain the integrity of your survival space. They act as a protective barrier, preventing intrusion that could crush or trap occupants. This preservation of the passenger compartment is what allows other safety systems to function effectively.

Safety System Integration

Crumple zones don’t work in isolation. They’re designed to complement your vehicle’s airbags and seat belts by managing the timing and intensity of crash forces. This integration optimises the performance of all safety systems, working together to protect you.

Modern vehicles with properly designed crumple zones consistently achieve better crash-test ratings than older, more rigid designs. These improved outcomes aren’t just statistics – they represent real lives saved on roads across South Africa and around the world.

Real-World Impact on Road Safety

The effectiveness of crumple zones becomes clear when you compare crash outcomes between modern and older vehicles. Cars from the 1970s and 1980s, which were built like proverbial tanks with rigid construction, often transferred enormous forces directly to occupants during crashes.

Today’s vehicles might look more damaged after an accident, but that visible damage represents energy absorption that didn’t reach the people inside. The crumpled metal is evidence that the safety system worked exactly as intended.

Maintenance and Your Safety Investment

Most drivers don’t realise that crumple zones require no special maintenance – they’re passive safety systems that are always ready. However, structural damage from previous accidents can compromise their effectiveness. This is why proper collision repair using manufacturer specifications is so important.

After any significant impact, even if the vehicle seems drivable, these zones may have already done part of their job. A thorough inspection by qualified technicians can determine if the structural integrity remains intact for future protection.

The next time you see a severely damaged vehicle after an accident, remember that the crumpled metal represents successful engineering. Those zones absorbed tremendous forces that could have been transmitted to the occupants instead. In many cases, that engineered failure is the reason people walk away from crashes that would have been fatal in older vehicles.

Your car’s ability to deform and break up in the right places, at the right time, in the right way, represents decades of safety engineering evolution. These hidden heroes work silently every time you drive, ready to sacrifice themselves for your protection if the worst should happen.

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Car information guides for buyers and sellers

Volvo 850R: Classic Drive

In the mid-90s, when Volvo was still regarded as a safe, but ultimately dull choice by driving enthusiasts, the Gothenburg-based brand unleashed the 850R – a super sedan with explosive performance. We took a pristine example for a run in the Swartland.

Think “Volvo 850” and your thoughts are likely to turn to the brick-like station wagon version piloted by the likes of Rickard Rydell and Kelvin Burt in the British Touring Car Championship in the 90s. It was a marketing tactic that bestowed considerable desirability on the Swedish marque’s faster T5-badged variants and, in particular, the limited-edition T-5R, which was the curtain raiser for the Volvo 850R.

Volvo 850R rear three-quarter tracking shot

You see, Volvo was so encouraged by the T-5R’s success that the firm decided to make a fast flagship a permanent member of the ageing line-up – that’s how the Volvo 850R was born. The car you see here, which is in pristine condition, belongs to Emile Smit, who lives in Malmesbury. What’s more, it’s a rare manual version – a mere 58 units of the 850R came to South Africa, and of those, only 18 were manual.

It’s an important distinction (manual vs automatic), because the self-shifting 850R was powered by the T5’s 166kW/300Nm engine, while the “stick shift”, as featured here, packed 186 kW and 350 Nm from its 2.3-litre 5-cylinder turbopetrol motor. That’s quite a lot of grunt to go through the front wheels only…

Compared with the earlier T-5R variant, the 850R’s engine had a larger turbocharger (manual only), a new manifold and intercooler, plus a more sophisticated fuel pressure sensor (source: Volvotips.com)

Performance and Luxury

When Emile showed up at a SentiMETAL OutRun with this Volvo, it just about stole the show. The crisp, squared-off lines truly “pop” in this bright Brilliant Red paint finish (10 red 850Rs, at most, were brought to Mzansi), and Emile’s 850R has a cream leather trim, which at 1st glance appears an odd combination, particularly with the gloss birch wood finish, which would be more befitting of a luxury sedan.

On the outside, it has just enough BTCC swagger to make those in the know sit up and take notice. It sits low (30 mm lower than a normal T5), hunkered down on those dark gunmetal Volan 17-inch wheels, the front spoiler is deep, and at the rear, there’s a subtle black lip on the already prominent boot spoiler.

But then again, the Volvo 850R is also a luxury sedan. It is extremely highly specced for a car of its era and, as a consequence, the cabin is spattered with buttons! The multitude of luxury and tech features (for a 30-year-old car) includes traction- and cruise control, dual-zone climate control, an audio system with a CD player, heated and electrically adjustable front seats, as well as dual front and side airbags.

If you’re looking to buy a Volvo 850R, make sure all the electric gizmos work when you take it for a test drive. Emile has spent a considerable sum of money on maintaining his car, so thankfully, everything functions properly, including the aircon that pumped lovely cool air on a hot Cape Town summer day.

Specification:

Model: 1996 Volvo 850R sedan
Engine: 2.3-litre 5-cylinder, turbopetrol
Power: 186 kW at 5 400 rpm
Torque: 350 Nm at 2 400 rpm
Transmission: 5-speed manual, FWD
Weight: 1 457 kg
0-100 km/h: 7.5 sec (as tested by CAR)
Top speed: 236 kph (as tested by CAR)

What is a Volvo 850R like to drive?

The Volvo 850 was always a comfortable, spacious and safe car, and I’m immediately struck by the good seating position and how comfortable the Swedish sedan’s seats are. Fire it up, and the engine settles into a slightly deeper than normal, but still civilised, 5-cylinder thrum – the exhaust doesn’t bark or spit.

The 5-speed gearbox is surprisingly slick and precise (the car had clocked up about 150 000 km when I drove it), and the clutch takes cleanly. The turbocharged powerplant exhibits far less boost lag than I had anticipated, but the fireworks start at just over 2 000 rpm, with the 2.3-litre 5-pot delivering its peak torque from 2 400 all the way to 5 200 rpm. So it pulls strongly quickly, and keeps doing so.

Third is a do-anything gear, with explosive responsiveness to the throttle and a long enough powerband to see speeds rise quickly, very quickly. And yet, for a car of this age, it’s refined, and the cabin is quiet.

Generous overtaking acceleration, which squishes passengers into those comfortable chairs, is this car’s forte. For the record, the 850R gallops to 100kph in around 7.5 sec and goes on to a top speed of 236 kph (according to a road test published in CAR magazine’s January 1997 issue). So, it’s no slouch.

It’s a firm-riding car, though, with the suspension settings seemingly favouring dynamic ability and traction over cossetting comfort. That said, it’s no firmer than a modern hot hatch or performance sedan, and it puts its power down surprisingly well, with a viscous coupling and Torsen differential at the front.

It will scrabble for grip when the driver’s inputs aren’t smooth, or when the road surface is rippled or patchy, but the steering communicates nicely, so you’re always aware of what’s going on beneath you.

Summary

When the 850R was launched in South Africa, it cost around R260k: a hefty price for a Volvo back then – slightly cheaper than an Audi S6, but pricier than an Alfa Romeo 164 V6. The Swede was more powerful than either of them, and in my view, is highly underrated as a reasonably affordable modern classic.

According to Emile, because there are so few 850Rs around, it’s hard to establish a price for a good 850R manual these days (but probably around R250k). Sure, you can pick one up for less than that, but it will probably require lots of work (and expenditure). Good luck finding one as nice as this, however!

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Land Rover Discovery (2025) Price & Specs

The Land Rover Discovery range has been updated and trimmed in SA, though is now topped by a derivative described as “the most luxurious Discovery ever produced”…

The Land Rover Discovery line-up in South Africa has been rejigged, losing a few derivatives but gaining a pair of new special editions – one of which is described as “the most luxurious, comfortable and highly specified Discovery ever produced”.

Before this update, the local Discovery portfolio had comprised 8 derivatives, with base pricing bookends of R1 798 600 and R2 242 500. Now, despite the addition of fresh Gemini and Tempest variants, the line-up has effectively been pared back to 6 derivatives.

Discovery base prices now start at R1 824 700 and run through to R2 351 200 (before options, of course), representing respective increases of R26 100 and R108 700. Interestingly, the Dynamic SE grade appears to have fallen away completely.

Moreover, the P360 powertrain – a 265 kW/500 Nm turbocharged 3.0-litre 6-cylinder petrol engine with mild-hybrid gubbins – is now seemingly offered only in flagship Tempest guide (and furthermore in “limited” quantities, according to Land Rover’s website).

That means 5 of the 6 derivatives draw their urge from the British firm’s unchanged D350 powertrain. As a reminder, this 3.0-litre turbodiesel straight-6 motor delivers 257 kW and 700 Nm to all 4 corners via an 8-speed automatic transmission. The obligatory 0-100 kph sprint takes a claimed 6.3 seconds, while top speed is listed as 209 kph.

The automaker says the Discovery line-up has gained “a number of specification enhancements designed to offer more choice and versatility”, including new alloy wheel options. In addition, the brand has rolled out a trio of what it calls “curated accessory packs” (Beach Days, Road Trip and Snow Days).

Meanwhile, the new Gemini edition – which takes its name from the codename given to the diesel engine that powered the original Discovery from 1989 – is available in 6 exterior colours, including the derivative-exclusive “Sedona Red” with a gloss-black roof.

Priced from R2 038 800, this variant gains a Gemini-specific graphic on its B-pillar badges, treadplates and interior finishers, along with new 21-inch split-7-spoke alloy wheels finished in a silver hue. Other standard features include a cooler compartment between the front seats, “Click & Go” media holders for rear-seat occupants and 3-zone climate control.

*The Tempest is described as the “pinnacle” of the Discovery family.*

What about the Tempest? Well, the automaker says this edition “represents the pinnacle” of the Discovery family. Taking its name from what Land Rover calls its “secret development launch programme” for the 2nd-generation Discovery back in 1998, the Tempest is offered in a choice of 3 body colours, all with a new matte protective film.

A contrasting “Petra Copper Gloss” roof finish is standard, though buyers can optionally select gloss black instead. The “Petra Copper Gloss” finish is repeated on design details such as the wing vent, “Discovery” script and lower bumper inserts, as well as the derivative-specific 22‑inch alloy wheels.

Priced from R2 326 200 in P360 guise (though, again, availability of this powertrain is apparently limited) and R2 351 200 in D350 form, the Tempest furthermore sports unique badging on its B-pillars, treadplates, puddle lamps and interior finishers. The cabin gains “Shadow Aluminium” detailing along with extended Ebony Windsor leather upholstery.

What does the Land Rover Discovery cost in South Africa?

Land Rover Discovery D350 S – R1 824 700

Land Rover Discovery D350 Gemini – R2 038 800

Land Rover Discovery D350 Dynamic HSE – R2 136 800

Land Rover Discovery D350 Metropolitan Edition – R2 260 600

Land Rover Discovery P360 Tempest* – R2 326 200

Land Rover Discovery D350 Tempest – R2 351 200

*Limited availability

The prices above include a 5-year/100 000 km warranty and a maintenance plan with the same parameters.

Car Mileage Myths: Why Numbers Don’t Tell the Whole Story

What do those numbers on the odometer mean? We’re looking at what car mileage tells you, and what else to look for when assessing the condition of a used car.

The average South African drives approximately 21 000 km per year, yet most car buyers still consider mileage as a mystical number that determines a vehicle’s entire worth.

According to NerdWallet research, correctly understanding car mileage (the highest kilometre reading on the odometer in the centre of the instrument cluster) can save you thousands when buying used cars.

The truth is, mileage (shown above by the number 222 199) tells only part of the story. A well-maintained vehicle with 150 000 km can outlast a neglected car with half that distance.

Smart buyers know that context matters more than numbers on the odometer, and the real secret lies in understanding what those kilometres truly represent about a car’s life story.

What Counts as Good Car Mileage?

Good mileage for a used car is typically under 19 000 km per year for petrol vehicles and under 16 000 km annually for turbodiesel cars.

This benchmark gives you a starting point, but the story gets even more interesting. Modern vehicles are built to last well beyond 160 000 km, with many reaching 320 000 km or more through proper care. The magic number isn’t the total distance – it’s how those kilometres are accumulated.

A car that racked up highway kilometres during long commutes will typically show less wear than one that spent years navigating stop-and-go city traffic. Highway driving is gentler on brakes, transmission, and engine components. City driving creates more stress through constant acceleration and braking.

How Vehicle Type Affects Mileage Standards

Different vehicles handle high mileage differently. SUVs and trucks often see higher annual mileage due to their intended use for longer trips and heavier work. These vehicles are typically built with more robust components to handle demanding conditions.

Luxury vehicles might seem concerning with higher mileage, but some premium car brands, such as Honda and Lexus, are engineered for longevity. Their higher initial cost often reflects superior build quality that pays dividends over time. Meanwhile, economy cars can surprise you with their durability when maintained properly; Toyota and Suzuki have built reputations on exactly this reliability.

What Affects Car Durability?

Maintenance Matters Most

The difference between a car that suffers a catastrophic mechanical failure at 100 000 km and one that runs highly reliably after 250 000 km usually comes down to maintenance. Regular oil changes, filter replacements, and scheduled servicing prevent small problems from becoming expensive failures.

Service records tell the real story of a car’s health. A vehicle with complete maintenance documentation often proves more reliable than a low-mileage car with no service history. Smart sellers keep these records because they know informed buyers will pay more for transparency.

Driving Habits Leave Their Mark

How previous owners drove matters enormously. Aggressive driving, which includes rapid acceleration, hard braking, and poor shifting technique, accelerates wear on every component. These habits stress the engine, transmission, brakes, and suspension systems.

Conversely, gentle driving extends component life significantly. Cars driven by cautious owners often perform well beyond expected lifespans. (Which is why many dealers advertise vehicles with the words, “previous lady owner.”) Unfortunately, you can’t always determine driving style from appearance alone, which makes professional inspections valuable.

Environmental Challenges

South Africa’s diverse climate creates unique challenges for vehicles. Coastal areas expose cars to salt air that accelerates corrosion (rust). Inland regions face extreme temperature swings that stress cooling systems and batteries. Gauteng’s high altitude affects engine performance and fuel efficiency.

Road conditions vary dramatically across the country. Potholes and rough surfaces damage suspension components and alignment. Rural areas might mean more dust and debris, while urban environments create different wear patterns through constant stopping and starting.

Smart Used Car Shopping Strategy

With knowledge about what affects car durability, you can approach used-car shopping with confidence. The key is developing a systematic approach that weighs mileage alongside other critical factors.

Calculate Annual Mileage First

Take the total mileage and divide by the car’s age. This simple calculation reveals usage patterns immediately. A 5-year-old car with 120 000 km averages 24 000 km annually, which is higher than ideal but not necessarily problematic if other factors align.

Compare this figure against the benchmarks, but remember that 1 high-mileage year doesn’t doom a vehicle. Maybe the previous owner took a long road trip or had a job that required extensive travelling.

Look Beyond the Numbers

Mileage provides context, not conclusions. A complete evaluation includes maintenance records, visual inspection, and professional assessment. Check for signs of wear that don’t match the odometer reading – excessive pedal wear, steering wheel shine, or seat deterioration might indicate problems.

Vehicle history reports reveal accidents, repairs, and registration changes that affect value and reliability. Multiple previous owners or commercial use can impact longevity regardless of mileage.

Vehicle History Report Options

Vindocs – Comprehensive vehicle history checks in South Africa
TransUnion South Africa – Vehicle verifications and registration history
carVertical – Detailed vehicle and motorcycle history reports
VehicleFacts – Vehicle risk profiles and market valuations
FirstCheck – VIN checks and full vehicle history reports
South African Insurance Association (SAIA) VIN-Lookup – Free tool for checking salvage status
AA Auto Facts – Pre-purchase vehicle inspections and history reports
Dekra Automotive South Africa – Vehicle inspections and verifications

A Professional Inspection Is Worth The Price

Even experienced car enthusiasts benefit from professional inspections. Qualified mechanics spot issues that escape casual observation. They can assess engine condition, transmission health, and structural integrity beyond what mileage alone suggests.

This investment often saves a buyer money by identifying problems before purchase or providing negotiation leverage. A clean inspection report also gives peace of mind that your mileage assessment was accurate.

Red Flags to Watch

Extremely low mileage on older cars can indicate prolonged storage, which creates problems of its own… Seals dry out, fluids degrade, and components seize from lack of use. These cars might need extensive work despite appearing pristine.

Conversely, suspiciously high mileage might indicate commercial use, fleet service, or ride-sharing history. These applications create different wear patterns and stress levels compared to personal use.

Making Your Decision

Good mileage varies by vehicle type, intended use, and personal circumstances. A car with 100 000 km might be perfect for someone needing reliable transportation for several years, while another buyer might prefer lower mileage for long-term ownership.

Consider your own driving patterns and maintenance commitment. High-mileage vehicles often require more frequent attention and repairs. Budget accordingly and choose vehicles known for reliability in their higher-mileage years.

Your Next Step Forward

Understanding mileage helps you make informed decisions, but it’s just 1 piece of the used-car puzzle.

The best approach combines mileage analysis with thorough research, professional inspection, and realistic expectations about any vehicle’s future needs. Knowing how your potential purchase fits the general South African mileage pattern gives you negotiating power and confidence in your choice.

At Cars.co.za, we provide the tools and information you need to evaluate vehicles properly, helping you find reliable transportation that fits your budget and lifestyle. Smart car buying starts with understanding what those kilometres truly mean.

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BMW 2800 CS: Classic Drive

Many petrolheads would love to own a 3.2 CSL – arguably the most collectable BMW of the ’70s. However, the Batmobile’s older sibling – the 2800 CS coupe – offers much the same driving experience (even if at a more sedate pace) for a quarter of the price.

The E9-series BMW 2800 CS is among the prettiest coupes BMW has ever produced; the 3.2 CSL, nicknamed the Batmobile, is more iconic, but its aerodynamic addenda might not be to everyone’s taste.

On his YouTube channel, Frank Stephenson (who designed the original BMW X5, 1st-gen (BMW-era) Mini and, oh, Ferraris and McLarens) discusses the 3 greatest BMW designs. At number 2, he names the E9, designed by Wilhelm Hofmeister (yes, he who that kink in this coupe’s rear window is named after).

I’m fortunate to have driven BMW Classic‘s pristine E9 3.2 CSL in Germany, and since then, I have often wondered what one of the non-CSL variants would be like to drive. This 1970 BMW 2800 CS has been owned by several enthusiasts and is a near-perfect example of what a “lesser” E9 has to offer.

First impressions are favourable: the BMW 2800 CS’ light exterior paint finish is stunningly contrasted by a rich, tan leather interior. The chrome beading that runs around the circumference of the car neatly encapsulates the entire design. There is hardly an unattractive angle to the E9-series BMW, is there?

The profile proudly shows off 2 of the most aesthetically satisfying features of the design: the Hofmeister kink at the base of the C-pillar, next to which sits a chrome-encircled BMW badge (also featured on the 1st-gen X2), and an uninterrupted view of the cabin thanks to the “pillarless” design (more on that later).

The front-end is dominated by that “shark nose” design, which would reach its zenith with the E24 6 Series, and the perfectly proportioned, dainty, even, double-kidney grille. The coupe’s rear reminds me of a speedboat; the bootlid tapers elegantly to the inverted drop-off, all of which mirrors the shark nose.

There is an admirable combination of elegance and sportiness to the E9-series model, and it’s one that BMW’s competitors of the time were simply unable to match.

An interior with patina & What a view!

The interior takes you back 50 years. Patina is a word that is often used inappropriately these days, but that is exactly what this cabin offers. The top half of the driver’s seat has age-related cracks and tears, but in no way does that detract from the levels of comfort or practicality that the front pews offer.

This is also the case for the leather gearlever boot, and again, it’s not something I would want to replace (if I ever had the privilege of owning a 2800 CS in this condition). The headrests are neatly mounted on a metal bar (ah, the ’70s!), which is suspended by chromed pillars that descend into the backrests.

Wood veneer features on the fascia, which extends into door trims, as well as the dial surrounds and gear knob. The woodwork is perfect and again, ties in perfectly with the other dark panels and tan interior.

Except for the seat adjustment lever embellishment and a sun visor that needs to be fitted, the cabin is complete; it feels solid and sturdy, with no cracks in the dash or signs of serious wear anywhere else. We even open the perfectly functioning sunroof.

The perforated headliner is in great condition, as is the inner lining of the sunroof (trimmed in the same material). Surveying the interior further, there isn’t a plethora of luxury features, but the ribbed rear seats are perfectly curved to keep their occupants ensconced, and all 4 windows are electrically operated.

With the weather playing along, I decide to open all the side windows and experience the closest to al fresco-motoring the E9 has to offer. The rear windows do some interesting gymnastics while they drop down into the body work. The result, especially with the sunroof open, is of a near-cabriolet experience.

Specifications:

Model: 1970 BMW 2800 CS
Engine: 2.8-litre, inline-6 petrol
Gearbox: 4-speed manual, RWD
Power: 125 kW at 6 000rpm
Torque: 235 Nm at 3 700rpm
Weight: 1 330 kg
0-100 km/h: 9.1 sec (claimed)
Top speed: 200 kph (claimed)

What is a BMW 2800 CS like to drive?

I twist the key, the engine catches, and immediately the BMW 2800 CS settles into a relatively quiet idle. At parking speeds, the non-assisted steering system requires effort to turn the wheel, but thankfully, once the Teutonic coupe’s wheels start rolling, it quickly becomes much easier to twirl the tiller.

In front of me, I have a perfect view through the wide windscreen and then over the long bonnet. Holding the thin-rimmed, deep dish steering wheel in my hands, it provides much information straight from the front wheels – there is none of the disconnectedness we often experience in modern cars.

There are only 4 gears to play with, but it takes merely a few shifts to enjoy the direct and mechanical shift action. It almost feels like “metal on metal” with just a thin film of oil between the shift mechanisms.

BMW’s M30-series inline-6 petrol engine debuted in 1968 as a direct development of its predecessor, but with some modern refinements (amazingly, it stayed in production until 1995). The M30 introduced the company’s drei-kugel-wirbelwinnen, German for triple-hemi-swirl (combustion) chamber.

The M30 was available in many capacities (up to 3.4 litres), but initially as a 2.5-litre inline-6 with a cylinder size of 86 x 71.6 mm, then followed by the 2.8-litre engine fitted to this CS with a bore and stroke of 86 x 80 mm. Fueling is provided by a pair of downdraft carburettors (Zenith 35/40 INAT).

The BMW 2800 CS produces 127 kW at 6 000 rpm and 235 Nm at 3 700 rpm. The engine code, in line with BMW engine nomenclature, is known as M30B28 (the latter half indicates the size of the engine).

The 1st thing that grabs my attention is the generous torque available from low down in the rev range. From as low as 1 500rpm, you can flex your right foot on the accelerator pedal and the car will pick up speed smoothly, even in 2nd or 3rd gear. That makes it very tractable and easy to drive in town.

Keep your right foot down, and from 3 000 rpm, the 2800 CS emits that classic BMW 6-cylinder rasp. Past 4 000 rpm, there is already some serious acceleration (well, for a 55-year-old car), and that’s with at least another 2 000 rpm to play with! Through the twisties, you need to keep the car’s weight in mind, as well as a slight delay from when the steering wheel is turned to when the car reacts to your input.

This is partly due to the plump tyres, which I’d say is a small price to pay for the fairly soft and absorbent ride quality, which suits the “grand tourer” character of the car. Tackling a multi-day road trip in this car would not be a challenge… the BMW 2800 CS is a muscular cruiser, with a loping gait and easy manner.

Weighing in at a claimed 1 330 kg and with a stated zero to 100 kph time of 9.1 sec, the 2800 CS is not a sportscar, no, but with a top speed of 200 kph, it will serenely swallow the miles on the open road.

I reluctantly snap out of my continent-crossing reverie, stop and open the luggage compartment, and am pleased to find enough space for luggage for that road trip I daydreamed about. The boot floor is trimmed in smart carpeting, while the full tool kit is still present, complete with the blue BMW cloth.

What is the BMW 2800 CS like to own?

I ask the BMW’s former owner (2005–2017) to share his thoughts on the car and what it was like to own.

“The car originally went from Germany to the UK and then came to South Africa. The car was stripped to bare metal and fully resprayed. I was very fortunate, as the only rust spot on the car was on the right-rear quarter panel close to the tail lights,” he says, adding that finding very little rust was quite a surprise, seeing as Karmann produced the E9 bodywork for BMW and didn’t galvanise or rust-proof the panels.

“This full repaint took place in 2012, mainly because I was not happy with the condition of the original paintwork. The interior, carpets and so on were all left alone.

“It’s the driving enjoyment the car offers that sets it apart for me. It’s a 1970s car that has aircon that works, a sunroof and a radio. It’s a spacious car with great visibility. Finally, the 2.8-litre motor is so incredibly smooth. These are the prerequisites of a grand tourer, together with the visual appeal that it offers. The longest trip I tackled was from Cape Town to Knysna and back, a total of about 1 000 km.”

The current owner is just as enthusiastic about the car: “For me, the BMW CS is a piece of art – I’m so blown away by the beauty of the design, I have two E9s! For me, it is about the aesthetics of the car. I think it is one of the sleekest cars available, and that is where most of my enthusiasm comes from.

“I’m selling it because I don’t drive it as much as I’d like to; I feel bad because it just sits in the garage. The funny thing is that I’m not a classic car guy, but when I came across this one, I just had to have it.”

Before I return the BMW and its key to the dealer, I page through the BMW 2800 CS’ booklets. There, neatly under the “Free Pre-delivery Check”, I find a stamp that reads “26 März 1970” by “Bayerische Motoren Werke” in München (Munich), followed by the first service at 1 000 miles, only in 1975!

Summary

“Grand tourer”, as the BMW’s owner said, is probably the best way to describe the 2800 CS. Whereas the 3.2 CSL is an unashamed sportscar – an icon that you would want to drive as hard as possible as often as possible, the 2800 CS is a calmer proposition: a sporty coupe that offers enough performance to enjoy, but has a more polished side that allows you to enjoy it more often, perhaps even every day.

Special thanks to Archive Automotive in Cape Town (thearchive.co.za) for making this drive possible.

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BMW 1 Series & 2 Series GC (2025) Launch Review

BMW has launched its 4th-gen 1 Series and 2nd-gen 2 Series Gran Coupe premium hatchback and sedan in South Africa. Although evolutions of their predecessors, the new models remain stylish and tastefully updated entry points to the Bavarian brand.

Relationships are complicated at the best of times. Discordant needs, expectations, change and baggage are like emotional speedbumps that demand careful negotiation… The BMW 1 Series and 2 Series Gran Coupe (GC), which only appeal to some markets, have a lot in common with their Mini cousins, and seem under constant threat of being axed to make way for EVs, invariably divide opinion.

Suffice it to say, BMW tested the relationship with its customer base when it began producing compact hatchbacks in the mid-Nineties and further annoyed traditionalists by adopting front- and all-wheel-drive thanks to its shared use of the large Mini platform (UKL2, in the case of the 1- and 2 Series GC) in 2014.

The BMW 1 Series predates that departure from the norm as far back as 2004, when the Munich-based brand built its 1st “glitzier version of the Golf”. Its breadvan silhouette doubtlessly furrowed a few purist brows, but at least power was sent to the rear set of wheels and an inline-6 motor still topped the range.

The BMW 1 Series has now come of age, though 21 years later, the automotive universe is a somewhat more alien place than it was in 2004, and the latest (F70) interpretation personifies that progression.

Or regression, if you are 1 of the very few remaining die-hards who still lament BMW’s decision to ditch rear-wheel drive for its compact cars… or spin the models from a platform that underpins Mini products.

BMW 2 Series GC front three-quarter view

Stylish, if challenging, exterior execution

BMW SA, which launched the F70 1 Series and the mechanically identical F74 2 Series GC this week, is at pains to paint the debutants are all-new models, although in truth, they’re heavily revised iterations of the F40 and F44 models that debuted in 2019 and 2020. The body has swollen by 42 mm and 25 mm in length and height, respectively, while the wheelbase and the luggage capacity are unchanged.

More angular shapes have made their way to the bumpers and (standard LED) light clusters at both ends, along with a mishmash of somewhat confusing horizontal, diagonal and vertical lines in the grille.

Abbreviated engine line-up for BMW 1 Series & 2 Series GC

The Munich-based company has taken a chainsaw to the engine line-up, reducing it to just 2 available options: Mini’s front-wheel-driving 1.5-litre 3-cylinder turbopetrol (115 kW/230 Nm, with a claimed 0-100 kph time and top speed of 8.5 sec and 211 kph), and the 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbopetrol that produces 233 kW/400 Nm, which is 8 kW more and 50 Nm less than before, in conjunction with all-wheel drive.

The flagships are said to sprint from zero to 100 kph in 4.9 sec and go on to top speeds of 250 kph.

These motors do duty in the 118 and 218, the 118- and 218 M Sport, plus the M135 and M235, with, of course, a labyrinthine arrangement of wallet-wilting tech, tyre and feature upgrades available at extra cost. Note, however, there is no diesel, no 128/220 variants, and no hybrid or electric options either.

So, what else is gone?

At the rear, badge spotters (South Africans do love bootlid- or tailgate lettering) will notice that the 1st letter of the range designator is larger than the remainder of the text, and may be disappointed that the long-serving i-suffix has been re-appropriated for exclusive appearance on BMW’s electric models.

The silhouette is much as before, if a little more elegant, owing to the nose section being slightly longer.

By far the most significant revisions are found inside, though. So-called (and try not to chuckle) vegan leather is standard across all derivatives, while M Sport and “35” variants get sportier suede-like trim.

All BMW 1 Series and 2 Series GC derivatives are equipped with a reverse-view camera, automatically activated headlamps and wipers, built-in satnav and cruise control. Six airbags are fitted as standard, with the M135 and M235 additionally equipped with lane-keeping assistance and a blind spot monitor.

Bye-bye, iDrive selector wheel

Gone is iDrive selector wheel; so is the conventional transmission lever, which has been replaced by a circuit-breaker-style selector; ditto any physical button (apart from on the centre console): they have all been moved to the 10.7-inch touchscreen, which is flanked by a 10.25-inch digital instrument cluster.

BMW 1 Series and 2 Series GC interior infotainment screen

This digitisation drive, owing to more parts being housed in a single component, is most likely in aid of cost-saving, and veiled as the now-tired trope of “customers demand more tech” that car companies continue to trot out while gutting cabin ergonomics to prop up their margins.

Annoyingly, that touch- or voice-based only interface includes the controls for the climate control, which, as in the BMW X1 and X2, requires you to scroll through 2 menus to adjust the cabin temperature!

BMW 1 Series and 2 Series GC interior centre console

Another (more inadvertent) cost saver was that BMW conveniently forgot to move the engine start/drive mode selector panel to the driver’s side when it configured right-hand-drive iterations of the models.

BMW 2 Series GC front view tracking shot

Interestingly, all variants have dropped the 8-speed conventional automatic ‘box in favour of a 7-speed dual-clutch unit, which is why the “35” has had to shed 50 Newton-metres compared with its forebear.

7-speed dual-clutch auto is standard

This, and other elastokinematic updates such as revised suspension geometry, stiffer anti-roll bars and a mechanical locking front differential, have made the M135 and M235 both better and worse than before.

There’s just no way of clawing back that lost torque during in-gear acceleration; the M135 (that I drove during the ride-and-drive section of the launch) felt noticeably slower than its predecessor.

On the other hand, the flagship variant feels more planted to the road than before, thanks to adaptive dampers that keep the Teutonic hatchback upright in almost all conditions, and completes its Jekyll-to-Hyde transformation in Sport mode, when it can “flex its muscles” through corners even further.

All-wheel drive isn’t a big plus

The all-wheel-drive configuration is less pleasing. There’s an excessive front-wheel bias in the torque distribution, with noticeable torque steer almost on demand, which is almost unheard of in an AWD.

The soundtrack, most of which is real (although some of it is still enhanced by the car’s audio system), is the typical turbocharged 4-cylinder warble, but at the red line it becomes thrashy – and soulless.

Combined, the AWD and torquey 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbopetrol makes the M135 safer to drive quickly; the Bimmer would murder a slippery mountain pass. And yet it feels almost too protective or forgiving: there is no “edge” to its character. For what it offers (apart from sheer speed), it is, well, unremarkable.

That’s not helped by the fact that, apart from red marking at 12 o’clock on the helm and some weirdly-splattered M-coloured stitching over the dashboard (the one-piece sports seats are excellent, though), there simply aren’t enough visual clues inside to remind you that you’re driving the apex 1 Series.

A Volkswagen Golf 8 R, by comparison, pulls harder from the get-go and is livelier at the limit, too.

Best BMW 1 Series or 2 Series GC? 3-cylinder FTW

Balancing love and logic, it’s probably just as well, then, that if you’re keen on acquiring a BMW 1 Series or 2 Series GC, the 118 (go for the M Sport version if you can make the stretch), or 218 with its bolted-on boot, is the more attainable and convincing attempt at an entry-level BMW model.

While far from cheap, it’s all there: the best driving position this side of a Porsche 911, an overly fat-rimmed steering wheel and a solid, progressive brake pedal feel. The 218 that I drove was whisper-quiet at highway speeds with near-zero mechanical noise other than from the wind and 17-inch tyres.

What’s more, the BMW 1 Series and 2 Series GC possess a visual and emotional solidity that’s lacking in the Audi A3 and Mercedes-Benz A-Class and CLA equivalents (the latter of which it bests in the rear legroom stakes), even if the stoic Bavarian’s cabin lacks the look-at-me allure of its rivals’ interiors.

How much does the F70 BMW 1 Series cost in South Africa?

BMW 1 Series 118	R713 395
BMW 1 Series 118 M Sport	R753 395
BMW 1 Series M135 xDrive	R982 768

New BMW 1 Series specs & prices in South Africa

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How much does the F74 BMW 2 Series GC cost in South Africa?

BMW 2 Series 218 Gran Coupe	R733 559
BMW 2 Series 218 M Sport Gran Coupe	R773 559
BMW 2 Series M235 Gran Coupe	R1 043 099

New BMW 1 Series specs & prices in South Africa

Find a new/used BMW 1 Series listed on Cars.co.za

All prices (correct in May 2025) include a 2-year/unlimited km warranty and 5-year/100 000 km maintenance plan.

Summary

For aspiring buyers looking to get into the BMW experience, the unpretentious 118 is a great entry point. It still makes you feel like you’ve won the lottery without spending all your winnings on a shiny new BMW.

It’s lightyears removed from the original 1 Series, which means to say it’s no longer lairy, but that’s not to say it’s given up any of its usability (BMW’s switch to FWD for the 3rd-gen model improved practicality), or, indeed, loveability. And since when have relationships stopped being about compromises, anyway?

Volkswagen Polo Vivo: Fuel Efficiency Tips

Keen to get the best fuel efficiency from your Volkswagen Polo Vivo? Here are a few fuel-saving tips and a look at which derivative is the most efficient…

The Volkswagen Polo Vivo is one of South Africa’s most popular passenger vehicles – and for good reason. This Kariega-built hatchback not only offers well-proven underpinnings and impressive levels of practicality but also the potential for wallet-friendly fuel efficiency.

So, how do you go about extracting maximum efficiency from this strong-selling hatchback? Here are a few petrol-saving tips, as well as a look at the claimed fuel consumption of each Polo Vivo derivative…

1. Drive Your Volkswagen Polo Vivo Smoothly

Want to eke out every last kilometre from your Polo Vivo’s 45-litre tank? Well, you’ll have to adjust your driving style accordingly. Drive as smoothly as possible, avoiding harsh acceleration (try to gradually build up speed instead) and abrupt braking whenever possible.

Learn to look ahead and read traffic conditions, minimising unnecessary acceleration and braking – and, in the process, effectively maximising in-gear “coasting”. During highway driving, we’d further suggest staying well within the posted speed limit as the Polo Vivo’s 3- and 4-cylinder engines work harder – and therefore less efficiently – at higher speeds.

Also see: Driving tips to improve fuel efficiency

2. Keep Your Polo Vivo Properly Maintained

Regular maintenance – scheduled for every 12 months or 15 000 km in the case of the current-generation Polo Vivo – is critical to any vehicle’s overall longevity. But it also plays a key role in fuel efficiency. For instance, dirty engine oil increases friction, clogged air filters restrict airflow and worn sparkplugs can result in incomplete combustion, all leading to an increase in fuel consumption.

So, even though Volkswagen Group Africa unfortunately doesn’t (currently) include a service plan in the Polo Vivo’s purchase price, make sure you keep your hatchback properly maintained. This will extend the vehicle’s lifespan and maintain its value – but also save fuel.

Also see: Car Maintenance Checks to Perform on Your Car

3. Remove Unnecessary Weight from Your Polo Vivo

Are you the type of car owner who leaves all sorts of needless odds and ends on the back seat or stowed away in the luggage compartment? Well, we’d advise swiftly removing any unnecessary clutter – particularly any weighty items – from inside your Polo Vivo. Why? Well, the extra mass has a negative impact on fuel efficiency.

Furthermore, if you have roof racks or roof boxes fitted to your Vivo, consider removing these when they’re not in use. These items not only add weight but effectively increase the surface area of your car, resulting in more aerodynamic drag and therefore worse fuel consumption.

4. Regularly Check Your Vivo’s Tyre Pressures

Tyre pressures are often overlooked in the quest for maximum fuel efficiency. But operating at incorrect inflation levels can have a marked impact on your Polo Vivo’s efficiency. Underinflated tyres can not only lead to outright failure but also create added rolling resistance. That means the engine must work harder – and ultimately less efficiently.

So, make sure you inflate your vehicle’s tyres to the recommended pressures (depending on your usage; consult the manual for exact numbers) and regularly check them. Thankfully, all derivatives in Volkswagen’s current Polo Vivo line-up come standard with tyre-pressure monitoring, giving you extra peace of mind.

Also see: Tyre Maintenance Tips

Which Polo Vivo engine is most efficient?

So, which Polo Vivo is the most frugal with fuel? Well, the naturally aspirated 1.6-litre, 4-cylinder petrol engine sips at a claimed 6.2 L/100 km when mated to a 5-speed manual gearbox. This figure increases to 6.5 L/100 km when a 6-speed automatic transmission is specified.

The likewise atmospheric 1.4-litre, 4-cylinder petrol motor, meanwhile, is lighter still on fuel, with VW listing a combined number of 5.5 L/100 km. However, thanks to its turbocharged 1.0-litre, 3-cylinder petrol mill, the range-topping Polo Vivo GT boasts the lowest fuel consumption of all. In fact, its claimed figure of 4.8 L/100 km makes it 1 of SA’s most-efficient petrol cars.

Also see: Most Fuel-Efficient New Cars in South Africa (2025)

Find a used VW Polo Vivo on Cars.co.za!

Understanding Car Finance in South Africa: Calculating Your Budget, Hidden Costs, and How to Avoid Surprises

Herewith a practical guide to car finance in South Africa. Learn to calculate budgets, avoid hidden fees, and understand your rights.

Calculating Your Car Budget

Assessing True Affordability

Key Budget Factors

Understanding Car Finance: Key Terms and Options

Common Finance Terms

Available Options for Car Finance in South Africa

Hidden and Additional Costs: What to Watch Out For

Mandatory Fees

Administrative Charges

‘On-the-Road’ Fees

Other Costs to Consider

Insurance Requirements

Extended Warranties and Value-Added Products

Understanding Extended Warranties

Maintenance and Running Costs

Avoiding Surprises: Smart Steps Before You Sign

Get Pre-Approved

Finance Application Warning

Request Detailed Quotes

Know Your Rights

Understanding Car Finance in South Africa

Want to know more?

Related content:

How Do Car Auctions Work? Your Complete Guide to Buying Smart

We’re exploring exactly how car auctions work, what additional costs are involved, and how to make good decisions on the day.

What Are Car Auctions?

How Do Car Auctions Work?

Registration Requirements

The Bidding Process

Payment and Collection

Pre-Auction Preparation

Research and Budgeting

Vehicle Inspection

Smart Bidding Strategies

Pros and Cons

The Benefits

The Drawbacks

Common Misconceptions

Final Tips for Success

Related content:

How Defensive Driving Protects You on South African Roads

What is defensive driving, and what are the benefits of defensive driving? Here’s what you need to know about avoiding danger and staying safe on South African roads.

What Makes Defensive Driving Different?

Beyond Basic Rules

The 3-Second Safety Buffer

Essential Defensive Techniques

Stay Alert and Look Ahead

Master Your Blind Spots

Signal Smart and Adjust Speed

Real Benefits You’ll Experience

Proven Safety Results

Building Lifelong Habits

Getting Professional Training

Course Options in South Africa

What to Look For

Making It Stick

Related content:

What Are Crumple Zones and How Do They Work?

What are crumple zones in cars? We examine exactly what these passive safety elements are and how they work to keep you safe.

What Crumple Zones Do

The Science Behind the Safety

Engineering Materials for Maximum Protection

Why Your Life Depends on Them

Occupant Protection

Passenger Cabin Preservation

Safety System Integration

Real-World Impact on Road Safety

Maintenance and Your Safety Investment

Volvo 850R: Classic Drive

In the mid-90s, when Volvo was still regarded as a safe, but ultimately dull choice by driving enthusiasts, the Gothenburg-based brand unleashed the 850R – a super sedan with explosive performance. We took a pristine example for a run in the Swartland.

Performance and Luxury

Specification:

What is a Volvo 850R like to drive?

Summary

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Land Rover Discovery (2025) Price & Specs

The Land Rover Discovery range has been updated and trimmed in SA, though is now topped by a derivative described as “the most luxurious Discovery ever produced”…

What does the Land Rover Discovery cost in South Africa?